Wednesday, May 9, 2007

Southbound

While the journey of 1,000 miles begins with one step, our six-month roughly 20,000-mile road trip to Buenos Aires began with five days in Alta California.

After starting the new "workweek" by loading up the rusty, trusty Crow (our ’93 Nissan, hereafter refered by the Spanish equivalent: El Cuervo), we made one last stop at a San Francisco Peets and began the southbound trip along Ocean Beach’s Great Highway. Google Maps directions to Buenos Aires, Argentina: South to Santiago, Chile. Turn left.

I’d be lying if I said the beginning of our trip was pure bold carpe diem, totally without pangs of apprehension, which, I guess, mark the beginning of all journeys. We dealt with this by taking five days to get from San Francisco to Thousand Oaks to LA to Oceanside to Baja California, stops along the way to reconnect with family and friends. We also had one last opportunity to top off the $1,000-plus we spent at the San Francisco REI store. We were gear-headedly excited and budget-mindedly dismayed to find the once-Toys R Us in Santa Monica a block from my brother’s place is now an REI, and managed to find a few additional must-haves.

Nothing cures buyer’s remorse better than putting a new purchase to good use. We camped the first three nights in Baja. Some of our favorite items: our light, side-accessible packs, Jetboil stoves, Thermarest self-inflating sleeping pads, headlamps, and ditty bags – those great, little multi-colored compartmentalizing sacks that simplify finding clean underwear deep in your pack.

One final purchase from my long-time friend Jim Phelps, was a 6-2 rocket fish surfboard – which found a few good waves at a remote point break two days deep into Baja. Emese side-glanced her wonder about the need for an additional surfboard – I had a 6-10 already tucked into El Cuervo – but Jim gave me a test drive and a great deal. Besides, any serious traveling surfer needs a quiver of at least two arrows.

30 comments:

Ed Terpening said...

How exciting! I wish we'd been able to see you off. Mike and I will be following your journey.

Anonymous said...

DPO and Emese,

You guys are living the dream! I'll be keeping up with you (and El Cuervo) every step of the way.

Anonymous said...

DPO and Emese: Debbie, I and the boys wish you well. Don't be afraid to spend some time in Michocan after you leave San Miguel. Morelia is a great town as is the little village of Patzcuaro. If you go to Morelia, have a drink and eat at "La Fonda" . Best, Tom

Faisal said...

I'm envious! Sorry I didn't get chance to see you before you left... but I'll be living the dream vicariously though your blog :)
Venga! Muchisima suerte!

Anonymous said...

Nice Blog. Keep up the Blogging. Wish I could Blog. I'm glad Ed T. had another opportunity to post a photo of himself that is 10 years younger than he is today.

Thanks for send us the email update. Remember to keep your headlamp lights on low beam until you really need to use the high beam.

With love, Neil, Jo, Cole and Kyle

chrisyeung said...

hello em, i am so damn jealous. =P
i am mentally supporting you and doug all the way with my super jedi power.
may the force be with you! if you hear any voices talking to you at night, that's me!
have a lot of fun. i can't wait to hear all the stories when you come back. =)

love you,
chris

tonosi said...

Hey Doug & Emese,
Oh my gosh, I remember the nissan in South Beach ~'97! True Kamikaze.

Doug, dont speak any spanish to the cops at the checkpoints in Guate! Act Dumb. Just say "solo tengo targeta de credito". They'll get tired and let you go after an hour or two. No big deal.

-Tony @ Austin, Tx

Anonymous said...

Hi Emese, hi Doug!! Great adventure! I will follow from Germany...;-) and perhaps i can follow the route in a few years time...besos to the Americas!! simon

John Kimball said...

Well yeee - f**king - haahhhh!!! Its about time! I thought you guys may have packed it all in and shuffled off to Buffalo or some other surburban fun zone. Very exciting and looking forward to reading more of your travels. When do you plan on being in Buenos Aires? Have always wanted to go there and do my Evita impersonation for the natives! John

Anonymous said...

Hallo Ihr zwei Huebschen!!! Que os envidio por este viaje fabuloso! No conosco mucho la region pero me encanto Acapulco si os gusta ir de fiesta un dia. Tambien la gente hacer surf! Estoy tarbajando en Bruselas ahora pensando en vosotros. Espero que hagais muchas fotos para que pueda viajar con vosotros, por lo menos en mis suenyos!!! Cuando veneis a Europa? Muchos besos y que disfruteis del viaje al maximo!!! Ganz viele Bussis, Mariam

Unknown said...

Hola Papino & Papitos.

How rich riding shotgun w/ your blog.

Paraqaentos!


BDL

Anonymous said...

Doug: Fuerte, man, fuerte. Awesome! Jealous as can be. If you happen to be near La Saladita first week of June, look us up. Let me know... otherwise, I can also give you beta on my brother's place in CR if you're heading near the Osa.

Anonymous said...

Doug & Emese:

Thanks for the catchy blog title, but now I'll be expecting some Hunter S. Thompson-like shenanigans (you know, involving peyote, speeding cadillacs and samoans). But in the meantime I will be satisfied to know that you and Emese are practicing young adult safety on your bold adventures. Everyone at the Golden Gate National Parks Conservancy is missing you, Doug! Until we meet again, via con dios!

Ben Harwood

Anonymous said...

Brian, Ariya, and I will live vicariously through your adventures. Sorry we missed you before you left... Can't wait to hear more! -Lisa

Anonymous said...

Way to go Jim Phelphs ensuring the Americas travellers have at least 2 sticks to ride. Keep up the fun blog. - Kirk W.

tian'95 said...

Emese and Doug,
Congratulation for the blog! it is clear and nice. I waited for days when it will accour.
Good luck for the long jurney I will follow from the middle of Europe.
Take care and sok puszi,
Zoli

Anonymous said...

You guys, Loving this vicarious magical mystery tour! And I had to smile when I read your giving it up for the Jetboil - yes indeedy, just used it backpacking in the Paria Canyon in Utah, best splurge ever. If you go through San Cristobal de las Casas in Chiapas, email me for contact info for Maria Elena Martinez-Torres, a local professor who does really interesting work with campesinos there as well as being a colleague of mine on the PANNA Board[Pesticide Action]. Deane & I send jealous love.

winterolympics said...

Hóla Doug y Emese! This looks like TOO much fun. Buen viaje!

Anonymous said...

thought I'd pass on an email from a friend just back from Mexico "go to Tulum --- driving south down the Yucutan. The city is not all that exciting, but it has the most beautiful beach ever...and right next to the beach are the Mayan ruins by the cliffs overlooking the Caribbean, and Tulum beach where I stayed. I stayed in a cabana, right on the beach facing the ocean, and slept in a hammock. The beach is still pretty remote and not really populated ... and lining the beach are all types of cabana hotels (from fancy to the basics). My cabana cost 15 dollars and was designed for two-three people. So it was me and a friend... There's no electricity, no real floor (just sand) and one bathroom in the main "lounge." I loved it.
You need a flashlight to make your way to the fancier places where they have the amazing tiki bars. Highly recommend Tulum.

Anonymous said...

So great to hear from you! I've grown culturally already - cuervo means crow. Wow. My association with the term (and margaritas) has forever changed.

Onto more important things - if you're in the heart of Mexico my increased interest in Central American geography has you quickly moving into Guatemala. Here's a tip - Yeah, yeah, yeah, there's Tikal and Lago de Atitlan, but you really have to go to......

The El Portal Cantina in Guatemala City! Paul and I stumbled in (ok, and out) of this magical place on a Saturday afternoon, so I can't vouch for it otherwise. But it is pure heaven. It is located within a Pasaje along the Parque Central, opposite the Palace. As you face the bandshell or stand in front of the Cathedral, it's on the right side. It is a step back in time to the 1950's - imagine a big Guatemalan Tosca's with wonderful Marimba, sweetly baracho locals, cold Gallo cervezas - Emese will become Eme Che (apparently a favorite spot for the revolutionary icon.) I totally thought of you and hoped I could direct you there. Perfect location for a great indie movie.

And, our visit with our sweet boy was beautiful. I don't have the words.

Lots of love to you, and continued amazing travels. I'm sure you're finding lots of your own magical places. Keep us apprised!

Anonymous said...

Hello Chicos,

Very exciting, but... where are the pictures?

By the way Emese, at this speed rate I can see that Doug got it his way!!!

jose antonio

Anonymous said...

How amazing. what a great trip you are going to have. You have inspired me to start thinking about my next gap year.

Don't forget to come and visit us in Strand on the Green if you ever fly through Heathrow.

Vern

Anonymous said...

Doug.... You're the man! Good luck. Glad to hear your having a blast...Enjoy!

Cord

Anonymous said...

Good luck as your journey continues, Doug and Emese! I would say, don't do anything crazy but it's obviously too late. Geoff and I wish we could have seen you off and look forward to having you back. Love, Tina&Geoff.

Anonymous said...

NICE :-) we want more pics!!!
P (bajnogel)

Anonymous said...

DPO & Emese: Eugene, Eldridge, Micaela and I miss you both and appreciate the periodic updates. I look forward to more tales of adventure and excitement. Love, Sonya

Anonymous said...

Hola! me alegro que la esten pasando bien y espero que continue asi. Que tal el español?

Estaremos entre el 17 de agosto y el 4 de septiembrre en Montevideo,Bariloche y Buenos Aires.
Cuando llegaran ustedes?
Hasta pronto!
ARIEL

Anonymous said...

Living vacariously..I guess the tables have turned :)
Have you talked to Lonely Planet or the Rough Guide publishers yet? Pehaps they could use your help, perhaps with Panama?
Have you made it to san Blas and Boca del Torro?
can wait for the next update (and my postcards!!!).
Besos,
Anat

Anonymous said...

Hola chicos!!!
It's been a long while since we heard from you and I hope your adventure is taking its due course. Have you gotten lost in the selva or the spirit of the road has sealed the communication gate?
The alternative reality is magical and has its own dimensions. As for us, simple mortals, we are bound by linear time whispering us that it has been a month since we last heard of you. Bridge the gap and send us note of existence :)
Besos y abrazos,
Anat

Anonymous said...

Hi Doug and Emese!

Loved this entry more than you'll ever know! I made the same trip as a young 20-something and Guatamala was my favorite place. So much so, I had to return to Lake Atitlan because I just hadn't had enough. I still dream about Guatamalas colors. So glad that it still holds the same allure.

I took plenty of chicken buses, they were my sole mode of transportation. I still hold to the truth that God exists on the shoulders of everyone that is lucky enough to step off of them alive.

I also had my share of "energizing" border crossings. The most memorable was from Mexico to Guatamala, in the company of a German visitor. At that time, one bus left you and another took you in and you spent the ensuing hours waiting on the roadside, with any and all forms of whildlife. Our German friend entertained us for hours disscussing the "Wultures in the williages."

OK, at the boarders, anything seems funny! Keep up your outstanding journal, we miss and envy you!

Nicki